Why Plant-Derived Exosomes are Revolutionizing Regenerative Skin Care, According to Frank Roesken, MD, PhD

Frank Roesken, MD, PhD | Courtesy of Skin Moderne

As the aesthetics industry continues to evolve toward science-driven, at-home innovation, few voices are as uniquely qualified to guide the conversation as Frank Roesken, MD, PhD. With a dual background in wound healing and aesthetic dermatology, Roesken has spent his career bridging the gap between clinical science and personalized care. He is the co-founder of NanoFusion, CEO of THERAPEIA Cosmetics, and Medical Advisor at Skin Moderne, a company pioneering biocompatible skin care solutions.

This month, Skin Moderne launches its Exosomes Regenerative Complex, a next-generation product utilizing plant-derived exosomes sourced from botanicals like cabbage and cucumber. Unlike human or animal-derived exosomes, which pose concerns around immunogenicity, contamination, and regulatory complexity, these plant exosomes are designed to be safer, more sustainable, and equally potent in skin rejuvenation.

In this exclusive Q&A, Roesken explains how plant-based exosomes differ from traditional sources, what benefits they offer for skin health, and why exosomes are generating so much buzz in dermatology circles. He also discusses Skin Moderne’s cutting-edge purification technology, which ensures these nano-sized vesicles are delivered with maximum purity and efficacy and supports a forward-thinking approach that could redefine what’s possible in regenerative skincare.

Dermatology Times: How are plant-derived exosomes different from human-derived exosomes?

Roesken: Plant-derived exosomes are harvested from resilient, sustainable botanical sources, and because they are non-animal based, they carry a significantly lower risk of immunogenic response or contamination (e.g., viruses, protein-based pathogens), making them exceptionally safe for topical application. Human-derived exosomes are typically sourced from mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs). Their origin raises critical concerns related to immunological safety, ethical sourcing, sterility, regulatory oversight, and how they were preserved. So, the key differences are source, stability, composition, mechanism of action, and regulatory complexity. Plant exosomes are safer and easier to scale; human exosomes are less stable, have safety issues, and face stricter regulations.

Dermatology Times: How do plant-derived exosomes benefit the skin?

Roesken: Plant-derived exosomes are rich in bioactive, highly biocompatible compounds that support cell proliferation, reduce inflammation and oxidative stress, strengthen the skin barrier, balance the microbiome, enhance hydration, and promote cell-to-cell communication.

Dermatology Times: Why are exosomes continuing to gain popularity so quickly?

Roesken: The personal care market is constantly chasing the “next big thing,” and right now, that’s exosomes. Unfortunately, much of the buzz is driven by hype, fueled by suppliers making over-the-top “fountain of youth” claims without any clinical backing, eager to cash in on the trend. That said, credible clinical data does exist, showing real efficacy when exosomes are properly sourced, tested, and applied.

Dermatology Times: How are Skin Moderne's new exosomes unique compared to others on the market?

Roesken: Most plant exosome isolation methods suffer from low purity, low yield, and issues like filter clogging. These problems can damage the delicate structure of the exosomes and reduce their effectiveness. At Skin Moderne, we’ve solved these challenges with a patented purification process called “Electrophoretic Oscillation Assisted Tangential Flow Filtration.” Electrophoretic Oscillation refers to the back-and-forth motion of charged particles (like exosomes) in a fluid when exposed to an alternating electric field. Unlike traditional electrophoresis, which moves particles in one direction, this oscillation enhances separation without causing damage, preserving the structure and bioactivity of the nanoparticles.

This cutting-edge method, which also utilizes ultrafiltration membranes to efficiently separate and purify bioactive nanoparticles, ensures maximum purity, integrity, potency, and higher yields. After harvest and isolation, we test both individual and hybrid materials ex vivo on lab-grown skin to ensure the desired biological effects are present. Once confirmed, we move to human in vivo trials to validate that the results hold true in real skin. We do not launch any ingredient without this data. Our plant-derived exosomes represent the next generation of botanical science in skincare—high-purity, safe, and powerfully effective, precisely engineered to deliver maximum results.